We’re slowly trying to knockout this list of things to do before we can have our house re-appraised. The last time we mentioned the list we were cleaning out our garage (see link above). This time we’re sharing about patching the holes in our master bedroom.
When we had an outlet added to our library, the electrician had to cut holes through the drywall to run wire from a nearby outlet. If you want to avoid mutilating your walls, you can ask if the electrician can run a wire down from your attic; which wasn’t an option for us, because of our furnace blocks access. Even with the holes, we’re glad we now have an outlet for our coffee maker, milk frother, and mini-fridge in The Library. But glad or not, the holes had to go, so off to Lowe’s we went.
To patch the holes, we considered a number of different options. We originally planned to enlarge the 3 closest together holes — I know, it sounds crazy to make the holes bigger, but hear me out. We were going to make the 3 holes one large rectangle, which would reveal the studs and then allow us to add a new piece of drywall, cut to size and secured to said studs. However, when we were at Lowe’s, we realized there was a simpler solution. We found adhesive wire mesh made for patching holes that could be cut (with scissors) to a custom size. We went with this brand:
I started by cutting the FibaTape to a size slightly larger than each hole, and then placed it sticky side down over each hole. I’ll be honest, it didn’t stick very well.
After I pressed and pushed and got it to adhere to the wall the best I could, I started to add a layer of drywall patch over the FibeTape.
We actually found a tub of Dap Lightweight Spackle and a tub of Dap DryDex Spackling when we were cleaning out our garage. I tried both on the wall, and I can tell you, lightweight spackle is not the way to go. It’s is a little too dry and crumbly for this sort of application. I recommend the DryDex Spackling. It’s thicker, and goes on pink and turns white when it’s dry. It’s typically located by the sheets of drywall and not the paint (where you might find the lightweight spackle) at Lowe’s, just FYI. Here’s a picture of the one we used:
Once the layer of drywall patch dried, Blair sanded it down to prepare for the next step, adding the knockdown. Because we were going to add texture over the patches, it didn’t need to be perfectly smooth, but she did sand it to be level with the rest of the wall. Nothing is going to scream “Patch Job!” more than a huge lump on your wall. We used a can of spray-on knockdown (different from orange peel texture) to make sure there were no “bald” spots, also an obvious patch job indicator. Personally, I hate that our walls are textured, because spraying the texture to match is really tricky. We were actually going to have a friend, who is an artist, do it for us, because after having to patch a few spots in our kitchen we’d rather not mess with it at all. However, it actually turned out well. With this particular can of knockdown spray you can adjust the texture size between light and heavy. We started by spraying a light texture over the wall.
You want to spray a good bit outside your patch as well to make sure the texture blends in with the rest of the wall. Per the instructions, we let sit for about two minutes and then lightly ran a knockdown knife (to the left in the photo below) over what we had sprayed. Then we switched the nozzle to “heavy” and sprayed the area again.
Another tip, is to spray this stuff like spray paint. Keep your hand moving, and spray it in short burst, so you don’t end up with a thick, goopy mess dripping down your wall. You might also notice that we stuck one edge of the tape to the wall, and let the rest of it stick out a bit. This worked well as a barrier for rogue spray and we didn’t have to cover everything completely.
Again, after letting the texture dry a little (about 4 minutes instead of 2 this time), we lightly knocked it down with the knockdown knife. It took about 4 applications of spraying before we felt like it matched the rest of the wall, but the true test would be painting it to see if it really matched or not. We let it dry for 48 hours — not something you have to do, but we wanted to make sure it was good and dry before adding any paint.
And the verdict is…
A match! That area, because it’s under the window is typically in shadow, so I think that helps a big deal in making things look seamless. Shadow or not, though, it still a confidence booster for us when it comes to spraying texture.
Fix holes in master bedroom? Check! Have a great weekend, guys!